Niacinamide
Quick Snapshot
What it does
Improves skin tone, strengthens barrier, reduces redness
Best for
Uneven skin tone, sensitivity, oil control
Skin feel
Lightweight, non-irritating
Use level
2% – 5%
What it is
Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3 widely used in skincare.
How it works
It supports the skin barrier, regulates sebum production and improves overall skin clarity.
Chemist Insight
Performance is often optimal at moderate levels. Higher concentrations do not always deliver better outcomes.
Where you'll find it
- Serums
- Moisturisers
- Toners
Works well with
- Almost all ingredients
- Retinoids
- Peptides
Watch out for
- Very high concentrations may cause flushing in some users
Myth vs Reality
Myth
You need 10% or higher for results
Reality
Most benefits occur between 2% and 5%
Regulatory Position
Cosmetic ingredient widely permitted in over-the-counter skincare
Hyaluronic Acid
Quick Snapshot
What it does
Hydrates and improves skin plumpness
Best for
Dehydrated skin, fine lines
Skin feel
Lightweight, water-binding
Use level
0.1% – 1%
What it is
A naturally occurring polysaccharide that binds water within the skin.
How it works
It attracts and holds water, helping to maintain hydration and improve skin appearance.
Chemist Insight
Different molecular weights deliver different effects. Lower weights penetrate deeper, while higher weights provide surface hydration.
Where you'll find it
- Hydrating serums Moisturisers Masks
Works well with
- All ingredients Glycerin Ceramides
Watch out for
- Dry environments without occlusive support
Myth vs Reality
Myth
More hyaluronic acid equals more hydration
Reality
Performance depends on formulation and environmental conditions
Regulatory Position
Cosmetic ingredient widely used globally
Ceramides
Quick Snapshot
What it does
Strengthens the skin barrier and prevents moisture loss
Best for
Dry, compromised skin
Skin feel
Rich, conditioning
Use level
0.1% – 1%
What it is
Lipids naturally found in the skin barrier.
How it works
They reinforce the skin barrier and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Chemist Insight
Most effective when combined with cholesterol and fatty acids in balanced ratios.
Where you'll find it
- Barrier creams Moisturisers Repair treatments
Works well with
- Fatty acids Cholesterol Humectants
Watch out for
- Incomplete barrier systems
Myth vs Reality
Myth
Ceramides alone repair the barrier
Reality
They work best as part of a complete lipid system
Regulatory Position
Cosmetic ingredient widely accepted globally
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)
Quick Snapshot
What it does
Soothes, hydrates and supports skin repair
Best for
Sensitive, irritated skin
Skin feel
Soft, hydrating
Use level
1% – 5%
What it is
A provitamin that converts to pantothenic acid in the skin.
How it works
It improves hydration and supports barrier repair.
Chemist Insight
Works best when combined with humectants and barrier lipids.
Where you'll find it
- Soothing creams Serums After-sun products
Works well with
- Glycerin Ceramides Niacinamide
Watch out for
- Minimal impact at very low levels
Myth vs Reality
Myth
It is only a soothing ingredient
Reality
It also supports barrier repair and hydration
Regulatory Position
Cosmetic ingredient widely used globally
Peptides
Quick Snapshot
What it does
Supports skin signalling and collagen pathways
Best for
Ageing, loss of firmness
Skin feel
Lightweight
Use level
0.01% – 2%
What it is
Short chains of amino acids that act as signalling molecules in the skin.
How it works
They communicate with skin cells to support repair and renewal processes.
Chemist Insight
Performance depends heavily on stability, concentration and delivery system.
Where you'll find it
- Serums Anti-ageing creams Targeted treatments
Works well with
- Retinoids Niacinamide Antioxidants
Watch out for
- Overpromised claims without sufficient levels
Myth vs Reality
Myth
All peptides deliver the same results
Reality
Different peptides have different functions and efficacy
Regulatory Position
Cosmetic ingredient
Glycerin
Quick Snapshot
What it does
Hydrates and supports skin barrier
Best for
All skin types
Skin feel
Humectant, slightly tacky
Use level
2% – 10%
What it is
A classic humectant used in a wide range of skincare formulations.
How it works
Draws water into the skin and helps maintain hydration.
Chemist Insight
One of the most effective and reliable hydrating ingredients available.
Where you'll find it
- Almost all skincare products
Works well with
- All ingredients Hyaluronic acid Panthenol
Watch out for
- High levels can feel tacky
Myth vs Reality
Myth
It is a basic filler ingredient
Reality
It is one of the most effective humectants in skincare
Regulatory Position
Cosmetic ingredient widely used globally